This week, we join Keiran Mustafa at Kismet in Borough Market, surrounded by bulgur kofte, fried liver, lamb neck, chicken shish and what may be the greatest spread we’ve ever had on the podcast. Keiran reveals how a completely mad three-day trip through Cyprus and Istanbul with Dom helped inspire the restaurant, and explains the meyhane culture of meze, raki, music and long nights that they are bringing to London.
Keiran tells us about Sundays with his Turkish-Cypriot nan in Edmonton, where he was instructed to sit down and eat continuously before being sent home with bags of leftovers. We hear how those meals, particularly her bulgur kofte and dangerously addictive Turkish-Cypriot lasagne, eventually led him towards cooking. His first pub kitchen was microwaving cream and Stilton to pour over steaks and spooning jarred salsa onto frozen crayfish flatbreads, but his next job began with half a lamb on the worktop on day one and a lesson in filleting fish on day two. From there came Chez Bruce, where a pig’s trotter on his trial was repeatedly sent back until it was properly “mahogany”, followed by a year on the notorious vegetable section doing an almost unimaginable amount of onion work.
We also discuss the endless Scotch egg production at The Harwood Arms, the job advert that took him to Le Bab, pitching his own Turkish restaurant idea to JKS and deciding within five minutes of meeting Chet Sharma that he had to work with him.
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